Escorted Tours

Failte gu Fuadach nan Gaidhealt na h-Alba

Failte gu Fuadach nan Gaidhealt na h-Alba.
The Highland Clearances were a devestating part of the history of Scotland. For many it changed not only their way of life but also shaped the rural future of Scotland. Many villagers suffered at the hands of their landlords and tackmen and fought a desperate struggle to find a new life. Others managed to propser in a new life that never saw them return to Scotland again. Here is a resource that supports the documentation and historical value of this important area of Scottish history. You can follow in the footsteps of these villagers and find detailed descriptions and locations of the remains of some of the villages and townships through site descriptions, photographs and suggestions for further reading and links to follow.




Thursday 22 December 2011

Merry Christmas

I want to take this opportunity to wish everyone a very merry Christmas and a happy new year. I shall be updating the blog with lots of new information, photo's, walk routes and links in the new year.

Sunday 14 August 2011

Salachill Township Area. Perthshire

Today, after two weeks of torrential rain, I was able to resume my activities and headed out to the township of Salachill to continue my recording of villages and townships in the Dunkeld / Perthshire area. This is proving to be a very rich area for townships and discoveries

Salachill is a site that I have wanted to visit for a while and I was not disappoined. The only disappointment was the new wind farm that they are building across the area, so careful positioning of photographs was required!

The township is situated at NN954 427 and can be accessed along good paths from Ballinloan Bridge. Be carefull though, the are is very boggy and after all the rain, be prepared to wear suitable boots and clothing to achieve your aim.

Crown Copyright.
Crown Copyright















Salachill is an interesting site to visit. The remains of this township are situated on a hillside above the NE bank of the Ballinloan Burn,around 1.5 miles from Ballinloan Bridge. There are around twenty-three buildings, many of them are grouped into farmsteads, linked by trackways and set within stone-walled fields scattered with field-clearance heaps. The 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Perthshire 1867, sheet lxi) depicts almost all of these buildings (20 unroofed buildings).

Within the main area of the township, within the lower village are the remains of four farmsteads with many of them set into the hillside, or terraced up on their downhill side. These each comprise of five or six buildings loosely clustered around an irregularly-shaped yard. Two of these are located on a terrace immediately above the Ballinloan Burn, while the other two are situated slightly higher on the hillside. two of the buildings don't fit neatly into this arrangement and they stand in isolation at the W edge of the site.

The overall construction of the buildings on the site are very similar being roughly rectangular with square corners and in most cases gable-ended. they have faced-rubble walls mostly with cruck slots visible in one or two of them.

The size of the buildings can be divided into two distinct groups. In the first group there are five buildings measuring internally between 20.3m and 29.5m in length and between 3.8m and 4.5m in breadth. There is one of these long buildings in each farmstead, always on the N side of the yard.  The fifth is one of the two isolated buildings at the W edge of the site. They are all divided into two or more compartments and most of the compartments have separate entrances, which in all cases are in the South side of the wall, opening onto the yard. In two of the buildings, fireplaces can still be clearly seen in the west gable.

The other eighteen buildings are clustered close to the larger buildings, and help to define, the limits of each steading's yard. Several of the larger examples are divided into two compartments, and there is evidence of an upper floor in at least two cases.  Occasionally features survive which suggest a particular function: a fireplace in one building signifyes use for domestic occupation, and the opposed entrances in four buildings (one in each farmstead) points to their use as barns.

Saturday 30 July 2011

Dalmore, Farmstead. Glen Almond

The second visit of the day was on the way back to Craig navar. The site is Dalmore Farmstead. This site, along with Craig Navar and Tomenbowie, can be visited on the same day, with the walk to and from them, parking at Newton Bridge, being roughly a 6 mile round trip. The more adventerous amongst you can carry on along the path and cover the 17 miles to Loch Tay!

The site is located at NN862 317

(Copyright: Crown)

(Copyright: Crown)














The site is a single homestead site with the remains of two buildings with an outline of the field system.



Approaching from the West
Remains of first building
Remains of the second building

Tomenbowie Burial Ground

My visit today continued the exploration and documentation on the Glen Almond area continuing on the path past the Craig Naver township. Continuing west along the path will bring you to two sites, Dalmore and Tomenbowie. thips post will concentrate on Tomenbowie.


Towenbowie sits on the northside of the river almond at  NN 8363 3248.

Copyright: Crown copyright

1865 Map of Towenbowie. (crown)












It was reported in 1845 that a small chapel formerly stood at Tomenbowie, stating that ".. It is now in ruins but the burial ground is in occasional use". (New Statistical Account (NSA) 1845). New evidence now suggests that there is no knowledge of this chapel and no evidence of it on the ground. The burial ground at NN 8363 3248, which is too small to contain the chapel and is no longer in use. There are a few grave stones standing and visible with the last known burial being that of Donald Stalker in November, 1880 and that of his son, Duncan in October, 1876.

Although the site is no longer used, this does suggest that, although the glen was cleared in the 1830's, there were some inhabitants left, probably new sheep farming tennants who would have been buried here. Further investigation, will help to establish details.


Approaching from the East
Looking  west across the site
Looking East towards the site

The History of the Highland Clearances


I am very pleased to be able to provide a link to a pdf copy of the 'The History of the Highland Clearances' by Alexander Mackenzie. This book, first published in in 1883,is a key volume and provides a detailed account of the clearances in the Highlands and Sutherland. the book has long been out of copyright.

Clicking HERE will open a link to a pdf version

Clicking HERE will take you to the UNI of California, Internet Archive, where other formats of the book can be downloaded, including a Kindle version.

Wednesday 27 July 2011

Glen Quaich and Her Townships ~ Wester Turrerich

My visit today was to the Glenquaich area to start to document and record the villages in this area. This is quite an interesting area as there is quite alot of detailed evidence and testimonies from people removed from the area and their eventual new locations.

Location of Wester Turrerich


The visit today concentrated at the western end of Loch Freuchie and the township(s) around Wester Turrerich. There is an ordnance survey map of Scotland from 1843 to 1882,showing the location of this,and other townships, that I will be visiting over the coming months. This can be accessed here

A modern day location map, I have included on the left. The grid reference for the site is NN858 389



The clearances in Breadalbane, did not occur until the 1830’s, under the command of the Second Marquis of Breadalbane. In 1835, the factor, James Wyllie, had cleared the entire population of Glenquaich, with many (and most) taking flight by sea and populating lands in the new world, including the Huron settlement in Western Ontario and North Easthope, County of Perth, Ontario. There, they settled with other families from Amulree, Auchnafauld, Aberfeldy and Kenmore. All areas covered by the events of the 1830 clearances.

Further information regarding ships passage to Canada can be accessed here The information on these pages has been extracted from various government records, as well as the odd shipping record (mostly from the Allan Line). It contains, voyage accounts, emigration information, lists of ships sailing to Canada, information on the ports, and on the people.

After a decade, the land was striking in its desertion. Of the 3500 inhabitants once living along the Loch Tay and within the Glenquaich valley, only one hundred were left by 1850. That year the Second Marquis tried to raise a Fencible Regiment, as had his father so successfully in the eighteenth century. He found no recruits. An old man of Loch Tayside growled at him to “Put your red coats on the backs of the sheep that have replaced the men!”

Here are some photographs recording my visit today. (copyright Author)

Approaching from the west
A prominant gable of around 8ft.
Outline dwelling 2

Dwelling 4 looking south

Outline of dwelling 3

looking across dwelling 2 and 4


Altogether there are around 9 dwellings with evidence of more on the east side of the township, further down towards the burn. These are almost gone now and form grazing areas for cattle and sheep.

Monday 25 July 2011

Craig Navar Township, Perthshire

The Craig Navar township is an excellent site to visit and one that I visited today. Access to the site is very easy with parking available on the A822 at Newton Bridge, which in itself is a pleasant place to picnic.Crossing the road and walking for a round half a mile on an easy flat path, that takes you all the way to Loch Tay, you come across the remains of the township.



Position of Township
The Township, as detailed in 1863












The township is situated at NN 877 317.

The Ordance Survey Map from 1863 can be viewed here showing a detailed outline of the township, at this time recorded as in ruins

The site is on the right of the path on a hill and is cosnstructed of the remains of around 11 dwellings, each in varous states of decay, with the majority of walls no higher that 1.5mtrs, although there were some 2 or 3 fine examples of gables standing at a little over 2 mtrs. The remains of each designated 'plot' can still be traced, which gives a good outline of both the village and the size of each site.


Although the majority of the clearances are associated with the Highlands, there were extensive clearing exercises taking place in the lower highland areas, such as Perthshire. The 2nd Marquess of Breadalbane carried out an act of clearing parts of his huge estates and replacing people with sheep. The areas making up Glenquaich, which runs north-west from Amulree towards Loch Tay. From the furthest point the River Quaich runs South East from the hills into Loch Freuchie. Along the shore line of Loch Freuchie there are a further several sites of former townships and communities.

 I have added some pictures as a guide to the township. (copyright:Author)


East Approach to Township
Looking West across township



Looking West across Township







A Gable example
Corner stones on south facing gable
The remains of a dwelling










Lower dwelling remains
Middle positioned dwelling

Wednesday 20 July 2011

The Royal Commission of Inquiry into the Condition of Crofters and Cottars in the Highlands and Islands


The commission was a response to crofter and cottar demonstrations against excessively high rents, lack of security of tenure on land that had been in families for generations and the forced evictions of crofters.

Lord Francis Napier
The commission was appointed in 1883, with Francis Napier,

10th Lord Napier, as its chairman,
under William Gladstone's Liberal Government of the United Kingdom. TheCommission had five other members and published its report, the Report of Her Majesty's Commissioners of Inquiry Into the Condition of the Crofters and Cottars in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, in 1884. The other members were:

The commission began its work in Braes on the Island of Skye and travelled the length and breadth of the Highlands and Islands (including Orkney and Shetland) gathering evidence from crofters, landlords and others who were familiar with the plight of the indigenous population. The final report was hastily published in 1884 and led obliquely to the 1886 Crofters’ Holding Act.

The Napier’s Report is a valuable piece of documentary evidence from the Highlands and Islands (including Orkney and Shetland) in 1883, presenting facts and information on the population, as well as the political, historical and social climate of the time.

The report can be downloaded here


The Clearance of Vuia Mhor / Bhuidha Mhor

Vuia Mor is an island between Uig and Great Bernera, east of Reef, covering an area of 84 hectares. The highest point is Mullach na Beinne (67m) which falls away to the sea at Creag na h-Iolaire (Eagle Cliff). Much of the island is rough hilly ground but there is a slope suitable for cultivation on the south side (with lazybeds still evident), and houses were built at an isthmus between two beaches on the east side.

Vuia was occupied during the first half of the 19th century; records give four families living there in 1807, those of Murdo Maclean, Neil Macleod (ex Mangersta), Norman Nicolson and Roderick Stewart, each paying a rent of £4.0.9d annually. By 1841 there were seven families and some 46 people living there, but it was cleared shortly afterwards and has not been occupied since then.


The following was written by Maggie Smith for Hebridean Connections.  

Life on the island of Vuia Mòr was hard, with little fertile land and no safe anchorage. The peats were cut and harvested in Drovinish and taken home by rowing boat or sail. Boats had to be beached after each fishing trip.
Amongst the inhabitants were the family of Neil Macleod, who had found refuge in Vuia Mhor after being cleared from the old village of Mangersta. Neil was married to Catherine Mackenzie of Kirkibost, Bernera and they had twelve children, ten of whom emigrated to Cape Breton between 1821-1826. Kenneth, one of the sons, emigrated in 1826 with his wife Ann Macleod from Balallan, and their child died on the long sea voyage across the Atlantic. They managed to keep the child’s death a secret so that the child would not be buried at sea.
A grandson of Neil Macleod, ‘An Og (John, son of John), lived on Vuia and was courting Ann Maclennan from Reef. It is said he swam across to Reef regularly with his dry clothing strapped to his head.
The islanders fished to sustain the families and paid their rent by harvesting the sea-kelp with the substantial profit from the sales going to the landowner. When the landlord’s greedy eye focused on sheep rearing the community was sacrificed and scattered to the four winds.
The land officer evicted the inhabitants from the seven homes and forty-six souls young and old came ashore in the village of Geshader.  The strong swimmer John Macleod married his Ann in 1847 and lived in Geshader, having been cleared from the island along with his mother and sister. They lived there as cottars and the ruins of the house can be seen to this day at No 2. The Martin and the Smith family became cottars on No 10 Geshader and later emigrated. The Mathesons went to Ungeshader, then some emigrated and others went to Brue. The MacArthurs settled south of Enaclete at a place still known as Buaile Mhic Artair.
Tales of the eviction were repeated in oral tradition and are expressed in the poetry:
‘S iomadh athair agus màthair
Bha gu làr a ’sileadh dheòir
Mar chaidh a fuadach as an àite
Far an deach an àrach òg.
Chuala sinn e bho ar cairdean
Mu’s do dh’fhag iad tìr nam beò
Gu’n ghabh mallachdan an àite
Air na dh’fhàsaich Bhuidha Mhòr

À Amhran Lord Lever
le Domhnall Donn, Donald Maciver Cnip
The land officer responsible for the evictions, Kenneth Stewart, tacksman of Hacklete, went to Canada and fell on hard times. According to tradition, he was a tramp and went to the door of a house and knocked. The girl who opened the door gave him a piece of bread and after he had eaten she enquired if he had enjoyed this morsel. He replied that he truly had and was very grateful. She then proceeded to tell him that he had been responsible for the eviction of herself and her family from Vuia Mhor!
Cha robh dùil agad fhads a bha thu gam fhuadach à Bhuidha
Gum biodh tu lorg aoigheach orm ann an Canada.
Though she had only been a very young girl at the time of the eviction, she recognised the man at her door. She then urged him to leave before her husband came home. She believed he would murder, either he who carried out the evictions, or her for showing compassion to the man who had evicted the families so brutally years before.

(Copyright: Hebridean Connections)

Emigration to New Lands.

A significant part of the clearances was the movement of people from their crofts and the estates of the the landowners to new sites along the coast, south to developing conurbations and even overseas to start a new life in a new land (often enforced).

One such place was Canada, which became the new home, enforced or otherwise of many crofters. In his book, 'On the Crofters Trail' Craig David, explores the lives of many, and their descendants in Canada. An excellent website to support this area of the clearances, and one that contains a lot of information on passenger lists, dates and  supporting information, can be accessed here 

This site is particularly useful to those tracing a particular family as the site does not concentrate on the clearances, indeed it is a very small part of it.

The 'Exiles' Statue, Helmsdale, Scotland
One estimate for Cape breton, Nova Scotia has 25,000 Gaelic-speaking Scots arriving as immigrants between 1775 and 1850. At the beginning of the twentieth century, there were an estimated 100,000 Gaelic speakers in Cape Breton, but because of economic migration to English-speaking areas and the lack of Gaelic education in the Nova Scotian school system, the numbers of Gaelic speakers fell dramatically. By the beginning of the 21st century, the number of
 native Gaelic speakers had fallen to well below 1,000


The Emigrants Statue 'Exiles', pictured here, commemorates the flight of Highlanders during the clearances, but is also a testament to their accomplishments in the places they settled. It is located at the foot of the Highland Mountains in Helmsdale, Scotland. An identical 10 ft-high bronze "Exiles" statue has also been set up on the banks of the Red river, the modern city of Winnipeg was founded by those who left Scotland for Canada

Tuesday 19 July 2011

Strathnaver Clearances

25th December, 1819
A newspaper article dated 25th December 1819. A copy of the Transactions of the Sutherland and Trans-Atlantic Association, at a meeting held Oct. 27, 1819. At it's most populus, Strathnaver contained around a dozen settlements. Over the five years from 1814 to 1819 the valley was cleared of its inhabitants to make way for sheep. The Duke of Sutherland employed his estate factor, Patrick Sellar, to persuade the inhabitants to leave by burning settlements to the ground. (courtesy: Happyhaggis.com)
Sellars Stone
Sellars Stone. A Significant landmark on the Ardtornish Estate in Morven. The Estate was aquired by Patrick Sellar ( 1781-1851) The original House is no more but the Stone provided Sellar with a viewing platform over the estate.

NM 757 533 GB GridNM 757 533 GB GridVery close to the road and worthy of a visit if passing

Monday 18 July 2011

Scotlands Rural Past Website

The Scotlands Rural Past project aimed to work with local communities to record, research and promote the slowly disappearing rural settlements, clearances and landscapes of Scotland. The project was set up in 2006 and is now coming to an end but there's plenty of information and pictures on what's been found already plus practical information about how to get involved and discover the rural heritage around the country for yourself.

There are some great resources for those of you who are interested in visiting and recording clearance sites and the field recording forms should be adopted as a standard to be used whenever possible. I have added a link to the recording form, and also the guidance notes when using them, on the website.

Field Recording Form

FRF Guidance Notes

Sunday 17 July 2011

Milton Township, Newtonmore, Inverness-shire,

In 1841 there were eight townships in Glen Banchor, the ruins of which can still be seen marked on OS maps - Easterton, Westerton, Dalvalloch, Dalchurn, Lurgan, Milton, Croft Couneach, and Luib.

Milton I visited today. There is now nothing left of the site, although the site is marked by a plaque, providing a basic outline of the township and its people.

Plaque denoting site of Milton Township
Close up of Plaque inscription


Further information below about the villages and townships within this area, is provided.

 "..The estate records of 1841 showed 21 houses in the townships with 85 inhabitants. This fell, mainly due to clearances, till in 1891 there were just three houses occupied, with 12 inhabitants. Though the bulk of the clearances occurred between 1851 and 1891, the first clearances to make way for sheep were from Baillidbeg as early as 1760. The ruins of the houses can still be seen opposite the Biallid Beag Cemetery, just under a mile down the Laggan Road.
Up in the hills to the north of the River Calder, the summer sheilings can be seen (marked on OS maps). From May 1st to November 11th, the sheep and cattle were moved up the hill to summer grazing, returning in the winter to graze on the common land of the crofts (leading to the common township name to be found in many areas of the highlands of 'Winterton'). The families moved with the livestock and the ruins of the buildings can still be seen near the Red Bothy..." (Anon, www.newtonmore.com)



The site of Milton Township

Site of Former Milton Township.

Wednesday 2 March 2011

Highland History and Culture


 
Highland History and Culture




Explore Am Baile, The Highland Council's bilingual website, and discover the history and culture of the Scottish Highlands and Islands.
Rannsaich Am Baile, làrach-lìn dà-chànanach Comhairle na Gàidhealtachd, agus faigh barrachd a-mach mu eachdraidh agus cultar na Gàidhealtachd 's nan Eilean.

This is an excellent resource that provides a wealth of information, in different media types, that help to research not only the clearances but also highland life at the time. 

Am Baile was established with initial funding from the New Opportunities Fund and is now funded by The Highland Council and managed as part of Highland Libraries

Monday 28 February 2011

The Clearance of Strath Naver, Rosal Township; An Account by Donald Macleod

Further to my earlier blog on the clearances at Rosal, here I have reproduced a widely available extract from the event by Donald Macleod, a stonemason from Rosal who suffered eviction himself and witnessed the clearances and burnings of 1819. His account of the evictions was published (some 20 years later) in the book 'Gloomy Memories' which became the accepted first hand account of the Rosal clearances. (copies still widely available ebay, amazon etc) 

"  I was an eye-witness at the scene. This calamity came on the people quite unexpectedly. Strong parties, for each district, furnished with faggots and other combustables, rushed on the dwellings of this devoted people, and immediately commenced setting fire to them, proceeding in their work with the greatest rapidity till about three hundred houses were in flames!
The consternation and confusion were extreme; little or no time was given for the removal of persons or property - the people striving to remove the sick and the helpless before the fire should reach them - next, struggling to save the most valuable of their effects. The cries of the women and children - the roaring of the affrighted cattle hunted at the same time by the yelling dogs of the shepherds amid the smoke and fire - altogether presented a scene that completely baffles description: it required to be seen to be believed.

A dense cloud of smoke enveloped the whole country by day and even extended far on the sea; at night an awfully grand and terrific scene presented itself - all the houses in an extensive district were in flames at once! I myself ascended a hight about eleven o'clock in the evening, and counted two hundred and fifty blazing houses, many of the owners of which were my relations, and all of whom I personally knew; but whose present condition, whether in or out of the flames, I could not tell. The conflagration lasted six days, till the whole of the dwellings were reduced to ashes or smoking ruins."



"To these scenes," continues MacLeod  "I was an eye-witness, and am ready to substantiate the truth of my statements, not only by my own testimony, but by that of many others who were present at the time. In such a scene of general devastation, it is almost useless to particularize the cases of individuals; the suffering was great and universal. I shall, however, notice a few of the extreme cases of which I was myself eye-witness.

Donald Macleod
Gloomy Memories, 1892

Further such accounts of  clearances in Sutherland can be read in the excellent book, 'On the Crofters Trail' by David Craig.

The Cultural Impact of the Highland Clearances

In this article, by Ross Noble, and published by the BBC History unit, Ross Noble assesses what really went on during the Clearances. The Clearances have been seen as an act of greed and betrayal, an attempt by the ruling class to preserve their wealth by sacrificing their people. Now that the gloomy shadows of these forced expulsions are passing.

About Ross Noble

Ross Noble has been the curator of the Highland Folk Museum, Kingussie and Newtonmore, since 1976. He is currently chairman of the Scottish Country Life Museums Trust. His publications include: 'Creel Houses of the Scottish Highlands' in From Corrib to Cultra edited by Trefor M Owen (Belfast, 2000) and 'On the Trail of Folk Furniture: A Highland Heritage shared across the seas' in Sharing the Earth edited by JM Fladmark (London, 1995).

c. Ross Noble / BBC

History of Scotland

 

This series of video's provides an insight into the Highland Clearances and starts its story in 1792 'Bliadhna nan caorach' the 'Year of the Sheep'. A good production by the BBC in association with the Open University (OU)

Rosal: Deserted Township. Sutherland. (NC 689417)

Rosal Township is probably the most informing of the heritage sites kept so well by the Forestry Commission. The site includes display boards that help visitors find their way around the site, understanding quite a lot about how people lived back then- before the clearances.

The township sits on the side of hill at one end of strathnaver glen which runs north east to south west across northern Scotland. Strathnaver has its own place in the history of the Highland Clearances. It was a popular area and there were numerous townships, all of which were cleared by Factors, on behalf of the Duke and Duchess of Sutherland.

The remains of the township of Rosal, whose lands are first on record in 1269, and which was cleared 1814-18. It remained relatively undisturbed, until in 1962, an excavation and survey,directed by Horace Fairhurst, made it a type-site for clearance depopulation.

This area is littered with cleared townships and probably total around 16. There is a trail, known as the Strathnaver Trail, that follows the north shore of Loch Naver that takes in quite alot of these areas.



The enclosed video is shot by Steven S Reeves

IThe original discussion paper by Horace Fairhurst can be accessed here:
Rosal; Deserted Township

There are plenty of walks and information around this area. The area is managed by the Forestry Commission and they have plenty of walks and trails that can be accessed here:
Rosal Trail

Sunday 27 February 2011

Websites of note.

c. David Paterson photography
Where possible I will create links to other sites that will provide further information to the Highland Clearances. One such site is that created by the community in Helmsdale, Sutherland. An area synonymous with the clearances and provided some of the most crucial and devestating stories of the period.

Helmsdale Website


Thursday 24 February 2011

Lawer Village

Lawer Village Cemetery along the shores of Loch Tay
A return visit to Lawer village to document some more buildings and collect some more data. A great day.

Some of the buildings are crumbling more now and the landscape is reclaiming the village area.

Sunday 6 February 2011

Strath Naver Clearances

Here, I have a  link to an extract from The Scotsman newspaper for Saturday 25th December 1819 which reports on the Strath Naver clearances

The article can be accessed here: The Scotsman

The web link address, in full, is:
http://archive.scotsman.com/article.cfm?id=TSC/1819/12/25/Ar00701

Friday 4 February 2011

Highland Clearances on TV

There is an interesting reference on BBC2 TV to the Highland Clearances in the programme 'Great Railway Journeys'.

Michael Portillo takes to the tracks with a copy of George Bradshaw's Victorian Railway Guidebook. Portillo travels the length and breadth of the country to see how the railways changed us, and what of Bradshaw's Britain remains, as he journeys up the west coast of Scotland from Ayr to Skye.


Michael discovers how the railways helped train the first generation of commandos at Lochailort in World War II, finds out why langoustines have replaced herrings as the top catch in the fishing port of Mallaig, and sails across the sea to Skye to explore the history of the highland crofters and the period  known as the Highland Clearances.

 Link to Programme