Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

This is probably going to be the last chance that I wilI get to post to the blog, this side of the festive season. So, can I take this opportunity to wish all visitors, kindle subscribers and friends alike, a very merry Christmas. Hope you all have a lovely time and look forward to seeing you all here on the blog in 2013. If you are visiting Scotland, let me know and I will do my best to catch up with you.

The Clearances of Assynt. Clachtoll

We start our visit to this interesting area right out on the western peninsula, in the Assynt area at a place called Clachtoll. This is a beautiful place that allows oneself to be immersed in the history of the clearances. The districts of Assynt were to be a model of clearance for the Staffords as they geared up their agrarian revolution  and focussed their energies upon the North Western straths of the area, upon the recommendations and direction of William Young. He proposed in a report written in 1812, that the large tracts of the parish be converted to Cheviot sheep walks.

Whilst Young saw the benefits of introducing sheep to these areas, he also understood the benefits of retaining and developing new settlements, on the coast, for other trades and skills that could be developed and also provided resettlement opportunities for those displaced. One such area was that of Lochinver, just down the coast from Clachtoll, an area he identified as the 'metropolis of Assynt'

By 1812, Assynt had been converted by the factors, Sellar and Young, without mishap or protest an event often attributed to inevitability brought about by a poor harvest that year. Most of the new  sheep farmers were not from the South but Tacksmen who controlled influence over the inhabitants of the area. (1)

The Clachtoll road. C: Author 

As rosy as this account is, it is far from it and throughout this series on Assynt, I will discover more of the area and the stories surrounding this rugged and yet beautiful coastline that became both cleared from and cleared to. One such area is that of Clachtoll.

Clachtoll is a beautiful part of the area. Accessed by one road in, the scenery is both dramatic and barren. We were lucky enough to stay in Clachtoll for a week at a beautiful cottage, miles from anywhere and with only the rutting stags and starry skies for company.

Clachtoll is one such area that would have seen crofters cleared to, to take up new professions as kelpmakers, fishermen, lime burners and other new trades. The area is a collection of houses and dwellings that today provides both regular and holiday cottages.

Clachtoll Salmon Station. C: Author

One feature that is worth a visit, is the Salmon bothy close to the beachy head. The Bothy dates back to 1846 and was built by Hector MacKenzie. This slamon station was one of many dotted along the coast which netted migrating salmon returning to the rivers Inver and Kirkaig. They were caught in nets which were set out along the coast by the fishermen. The nets were attached to these long posts, as can be seen in the photographs here.  In it's heyday more than 100 salmon per day were netted, the season was from February 5th - August 20th

Salmon net poles. C: Author

There is written evidence available that the bothy was occupied when the 1851 census was taken when it was recorded that a family of fishermen from Banff were living in the bothy. In the 1881 census there were two salmon fishermen from Aberdeen and two local fishermen living in the bothy. 

The Bothy was closed down in 1994, the last of the Salmon stations in the area. 

(1) The Highland Clearances (2008) Richards, E. pg 167-8.

Glen Quaich: Amulree and Strathbaan Church

Amulree Church. Copyright: Author

At the end of the Glen Quaich walk is a church that is the final stop on the journey in this area. The church at Amulree is always worthy of a visit as, not only is it an interesting little church but also as there is quite a lot of of information contained in the church relating to the clearances and the families that were removed from this area and their flight to new lands in Canada.

The Church is situated on a slight rise to the SW of the Hotel at Amulree. 

Copyright: Crown 2012

The hotel is now closed but does provide ample parking along the old military road. The church was built to a simple design by the architect John Douglas of Edinburgh between 1743 and 1752 (one of a possible three at work in Edinburgh at that time), a near contemporary of William Adam and it is possible that the same person was responsible for the design of Killin church, the 'Palladianisation' of Blair Castle, alterations at Taymouth Castle and the repairs to the palace of Holyrood. Remodelling work was carried out in 1881-2. 

Map from 1855/ Copyright NLS / Crown

The bell was cast in 1519, repaired in 1982, and was probably the work of Willem van den Ghein I. An inscription in old Flemish reads 'I was cast in the year of our Lord 1519'. 

There were repairs carried out in 1989-90, and close inspection revealed that the vestry and porch were later additions as well as the more decorative style, size and placement of fenestration. 

Internally simple, lit by six windows, the interior of the knave was shortened after 1958, to provide space for a Sunday school and meeting place and the inside gallery was boarded up to assist with economies in heating, it reduced the congregation area to around 120.

My thanks to Nick Weall who has kindly allowed me to reproduce this stunning picture of the church here on the blog.

Amurlee Church. Copyright: Nick Weall

The role of the church was closely linked to the development and management of the straths and communities found within them and also closely linked with the Landlords at the time of the clearances. An excellent book to read that examines this relationship between the church,the state and the clearances is that written by David Paton 'The Clergy and the Clearances'. It is now out of print but can still be obtained from various resellers such as Amazon and ebay. A very worthy addition to anyone's library when reading and researching this subject.